Saturday, July 9, 2011

Day 19, the last day - Will Rogers State Park, CA - Long Beach, CA

Bicycle - Specialized Roubaix
Day's run - 41.3
Total elapsed miles - 1248.4
Time in saddle - 2:57
Average for day - 13.9 mph
Max for day - 27.4

     July 21, 1961 - Woke up at 5:45 A.M.  Ate rest of bread and honey and started out at 6:30.  A thick fog turned to a real drizzle and I got pretty wet and muddy.  Rode some freeways near Oxnard and Ventura.  Came throug Malibu (lunch there) and Sta. Monica.  Met kid on bike in Malibu who directed me to Compton.  Got to Bill and Dianah's at 3:45.  Waited 10 minutes and Dianah came in.  Bill working swing shift.  Be home at midnite.  Will let them take my gear in and ride home in A.M.  Sure is good to be home.  Must get in touch with Marylou.  Made 91 miles.

     No 1961 diary entry for July 22.  Ride home of about 90 minutes was uneventful.

     Bill was (and still is) my older brother, by two years and three months.  He was married, living and working in Compton when, before the Watts riots of 1965, it was still racially mixed and offered factory jobs, and his wife Dianah was expecting their first child.

     July 8, 2011 -  Went to sleep early and awoke early in our hotel on Ventura Blvd., in the San Fernando Valley, about 30 minutes from yesterday's end point.  Stopped for breakfast at a old cafe on Topanga Canyon Road and launched the final day's ride at 8:15.

                                                         1: Chandler the skateboarder Westport, CA


    
                                                 2. A roadside attraction, Humbug Mt., OR



3. An Adventure Cycling-recommended alternate route, north of Crescent City, CA


4.  Old road, new road, south of  Garberville

    
                                                        4.  Drive-through redwood, Leggett CA


5.  Bob's cousin Cathy's, Mill Valley CA


6.  On Golden Gate Bridge


7.  Bixby Bridge and ascent, Big Sur, CA


8.  Morro Bay and Rock, CA


9. Homecoming, Long Beach, CA, day 19, July 8, 2011


10.  Wheel dipping, Alamitos Bay, Long Beach, CA, July 8, 2011

    
     Made good progress with a slight, quartering, head wind along beachfront or on-beach bike paths through Santa Monica, Venice (that bohemian beachfront community where, among its other claims to fame, The Doors got their start), Manhattan Beach and Redondo Beach, for the first 20 miles, then turned inland on urban boulevards to approach Long Beach, passing behind the hilly Palos Verdes Peninsula, for the next, final 21.  Rendezvous'ed with Bob across the street from my old high school, about half a mile from my 1961 home, at 11:40, and met again a few minutes later in front of that home, where Bob filmed my arrival on his video camera.
      I rang the doorbell and was greeted by a pleasant, silver-haired lady with a walker, the mother of the female half of the owner couple, who were away.  The lady gave me a look at the front rooms of the house, which had not only been well maintained but remodeled and enlarged since my residence there, which ended in the summer of 1964.  The present owners had been living there since 1975.  I gave the lady one of my cards with my blog address on it and she said that she would certainly let her daughter and son-in-law know of my call. Took the official, still, arrival photo which, with the 1961 photo, like bookends, will enclose the volumes of the last 50 years of my life. 

                                                                      Afterwords   

      What happened to me:  I rested, recuperated, ate a lot, rode some and raced on Sunday mornings for the rest of the summer of 1961.  I drove the family Studebaker up to Van Nuys several times to see Marylou, but the distance and the attraction of new, local social and recreational opportunites (I was learning to surf!) put the relationship under strain and I broke it off before school started.  The only evidence of our acquaintance, other than my 1961 journal, is a high school graduation card from her to me dated June 1962 (she was a year behind me), in a parental family album.
      One day in early November, I was sitting at the dining room table doing a reading assignment when the dull throbbing I had been feeling under my coccyx for the previous several weeks drew my attention.  I gently touched the area.  It felt spongy. I pressed a little harder and a moment later my fingers were bathed in a rush of hot fluid.  "Mother," I said.  "I have a problem."
     I was diagnosed the next day with a pilonidal cyst, a kind of impacted hairball commonly known to soldiers as a Jeep-seat cyst.  Typically suffered by men with ample body hair, it was, in my case,  the direct result of many days of irregular bathing, friction, and, clearly, pressure from that unpadded, warped leather bicycle seat.  My grandfather had been right and I should have listened!
     Within a few days I underwent surgery, which consisted of the removal of a quarter-orange-sized wedge of your body with the wound left open and allowed to heal from the bottom by granulation.  Needless to say, I rode little in immediately-following months, and it wasn't until the summer of 1964 that I attempted a ride of any distance, and I had to be driven back from my destination because of bleeding and discomfort.  
     When I am asked how long I've been riding, I say, honestly, "fifty years," or "since 1960."  However, my riding was sporadic over the years following my recovery: while assigned abroad I rode with frequency only in France, where I bought a new Gitane Criterium road bike, in Suriname and in Venezuela, where a group of riders would block off on-ramps to and, in effect, commandeer a stretch of  urban freeway for our Sunday-morning riding pleasure, me on a Legnano road bike.  Following my permanent return to the U.S. in 1990, I have ridden regularly and frequently, averaging about 4,000 miles a year over the last 17 years, and I plan to keep riding as long as I am physically able to do so.  I don't have any present plans for multi-day, long-distance rides, but if I ever do it one, it will be fully supported.

     What happened to the bike: In the fall of 1964, in a moment of weakness and in an effort to mend a relationship with a former roommate with whom I had broken on bad terms, I loaned him my Schwinn Continental to use while he was car-less.  When a couple of months had passed, I called him and asked for it back. When I got no results, I called again, and again nothing happened.  Then, one morning in the winter of 1965 I opened the door of my small Seal Beach apartment, and saw, to my horror, the wreckage of my bike on the doorstep.  Judging from the extent of the damage, I could only conclude that it had been run over, possibly more than once, by a heavy motor vehicle.

     Lessons learned:

      Ride light, as light as possible.  I felt a mix of admiration and pity for all the riders I saw on their Surleys with 40 pounds or so of camping gear.  Sean had started with a trailer and sent it home very early in his ride.   If the expense of having a personal SAG driver is prohibitive (see below entry on the  topic), then at least consider riding in a group and pooling resources for a support vehicle and, possibly, sharing driving responsibilities.

     Plan your route with prevailing winds in mind.  I can not and probably never will understand why I saw so many riders traveling up the West Coast, into the teeth of a stiff, steady, afternoon nor'wester.  As I said earlier, suicide would be an acceptable option for me, but if I had in fact been forced to ride S-N, it would likely have both taken most of the pleasure out of the experience and added at least three days to my itinerary.  There's nothing like covering thirty to forty miles in the last two hours of the day, joyously spinning on the big chain ring, watching those tenths of miles roll onto your cycloputer at a rate of one every twenty seconds or less, with the wind at your back and the road rising to meet you, as that old Irish blessing goes. 

     If you are not put off by expense and can find the right driver, go with a personal SAG vehicle.  Admittedly, it would be hard to find a driver like old and faithful friend Bob, who had the time, has a  supportive wife, enjoys driving, has a good sense of direction and orientation, is patient, can entertain himelf in sometimes monotonous country for six to seven hours a day and has the sense of humor to put of with mine for four non-stop weeks, but there are spouses, partners and friends who may meet the criteria.  As for expenses, well... by the time I get back to Croaker I will have put 8,000 miles on the Jeep Liberty.  At 20 miles per gallon, that's 400 gallons of regular at about $3.80 per gallon - you do the math.  As for lodging, our trip to and from the Coast and the ride meant about about 22 nights in adequate to rather nice, but never luxurious, motels at an average of something over $100 per, including  tax   As for camping, I can't really say how much you would save, even if you always found room in a state park or commercial campground, but several of the self-supported riders I met, including Sean, who provided the term, admitted to "stealth" camping, much like I did in 1961.

     Respect motor vehicles, but do not fear them.  True, an encounter with a gas-drinking monster can end your ride, your riding days or your life, but life is about accommodating risk.  I stayed as far to the right as I could, often ending the day with vegetation stains on my right jersey sleeve, and taking full advantage of the hundreds of miles of dedicated bike lanes or wide, smooth shoulders on freeways, which you can ride on out West if there are no alternatives available.  I don't think I was deliberately buzzed by a motor vehicle during my trip, but some vehciles, for some reason often large RVs with "dinghy" in tow, passed a bit closer than seemed necessary.  On the other hand, RVs and semis passing at freeway speed bring with them a helpful, if brief, draft.  Adventure Cycling recommended early starts to beat traffic on some stretches of the ride, but my attitude was "the more traffic the merrier."  I'm not riding in traffic, but to the right of it, and the more there is, the slower it goes.

       And so, gentle readers, thus concludes my Half-Century Ride and my account of it.  Thank you for your attention and support.  Williamsburg Area Bicyclists and other local riders are invited to attend my planned slide show and presentation at a regular monthly meeting this fall or winter. 

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Day 18, Part B - Art Garfunkel's walk across America

     Part of my inspiration for the structure of the ride I will finish tomorrow (in'shal'lah) comes from Art Garfunkel's (oh, come on, you know who he was - sweet tenor, sang with Paul Simon before they went their separate ways) walk across America.  Although he began doing it, in stages, in 1984, I did not become aware of it until I picked up a copy of the October 15, 1990 edition of Sports Illustrated, which covered a stretch of his walk in Kansas.  In about three stages a year, taking about 12 years, he did the whole thing, and like me in 2011, he had a driver.  Unlike me, however, because I had seen the whole thing, he would, at day's walk's end, if his chosen lodging lay ahead, close his eyes until he arrived at the overnight point and as he returned to his previous day's end point, so that he would never see the same terrain more than once. 

Day 18 - Rincon Point, CA - Will Rogers State Park, CA

Day 18 - Rincon Point, CA - Will Rogers State Park, CA

Bike - Specialized Roubaix
Day's run - 66.2 miles
Total elapsed miles - 1207.1
Time in saddle - 4:12
Average for day - 15.7
Max for day - 33.5

     As can be seen from the above stats, today was my shortest day since Day 6 and the fastest day of the ride.  Thanks are owed to the general flatness of the route, excepting the third hour with some coastal climbs, and the tail winds, general except for some stretches in the second hour.
     Saw the "Entering Los Angeles" sign a couple of miles before the ride's-end and rendezvous-with- Bob site between Malibu and Santa Monica.  It's all over but the final stretch, of about 40 miles, the first third or so of which will be on beachfront bike trails, into Long Beach, and the ceremonial wheel dipping, followed by a final ride to and photo event at my 1961 Long Beach home.   Given traffic in greater L.A., I may beat Bob in.  That makes tonight the last motel night of the ride (On Ventura Blvd, in the San Fernando Valley).  Hooray for that part, too!         
     Plan to get an early start tomorrow so we can have lunch at an old haunt in Long Beach.  My daughter, who I told two weeks ago that I would be arriving chez elle on Sunday, left today for the family condo on Lake Mead and will return Sunday afternoon, so I will have their Newport Beach house to myself Friday and Saturday for rest and recuperation, poolside and elsewhere.

A demain

Robert
 

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Day 18 - Lompoc, CA to Rincon Point, CA

Day 17 - Lompoc, CA - Rincon Point, CA

Bicycle - Specialized Roubaix
Miles ridden - 75.3
Total elapsed mileage - 1140.9
Time in saddle - 5:15
Average speed - 14.2
Maximum speed - 36.3

     July 20, 1961 - Guadalupe - Carpinteria

     Woke up early in dripping fog and messed around  (as in "hung out", in modern English) until I left at 9:00.  Bought more bread and honey for lunch in Lompoc.  Mountain ranges (2) hard, hot.  I miss Marylou.
     Entered fog again at coast.  Northern parks full - rode on to Sta. Barbara and ate at drive-in so I wouldn't have to cook.  Snuck into the state park and am in a large clearing near beach.  Will wait until dark before rolling out, for safety.
     Replaced three spokes at once in Goleta.
     Tomorrow I will go to Bill and Dianah's and put up for the night there.  Go on home Sat. morn - rest, clean, check bike and race Sunday morningRode 92 miles.

     I sure seemed to hit the fog in 1961.  Hot, dry here this time.   Local news reported rare flash floods yesterday in mountains and desert.   My older brother Bill (two years, three months my senior) lived and worked in Compton, when, prior to the Watts riots of 1965, it was both a racially mixed community and home to numerous manufacturing firms.  As for racing, I was a member of the Long Beach Wheelmen, a group of young riders supervised and trained by an adult male with experience, who held informal Sunday-morning sprints of a suburban boulevard.  I always came in second to an athletic age contemporary with a much better, Italian racing, bicycle than my road-weary Schwinn.

     July 6, 2011 - Left Lompoc at 10:15 after replacing rear tire with a matching Serfas.  Not seeing thread yet, but better safe than sorry.  Remarkable that I've ridden more than 1,000 miles without a flat.     
     Road until noon was gradually ascending through a long valley between typical southern-California summer-browning hills colored by stands of live oak.  Road was good but asphalt especially coarse and I had some head winds during the second hour.  I was happy and relieved at reaching the high point of the day, where Rte 1 plunges down to meet Hwy 101 about two miles from the coast, and seeing a sign and icon reading and indicating "7-1/2 per cent grade next two miles".
     Once I turned left, to the southeast, and the breeze began to build, I started making good time. Left 101 before Goleta and rode a surface road about 12 miles to Santa Barbara, stopping to stoke up on my first Jack-in-the-Box cheeseburger in years.  As I was self-supporting for the day, Bob visited the reconstructed Mision La Purisima and had a bowl of famous - well, locally, anyway - Anderson's split pea soup for lunch.
     Back on home turf now, I passed several spots known to me when I was a young surfer - El Capitan State Park,  Goleta Beach, next to the campus of the University of California, Santa Barbara, and ended up at the classic winter, north swell, surfing venue of Rincon Point.  Bob picked me up to 4:40 and we drove inland to our motel in pretty, peaceful Ojai.  Probably the best motel, and certainly the best for the money, of the trip, and our Italian dinner at a small, indoor-outdoor garden, establishment a couple of miles south of the motel, was also memorable.
     Did not see on the road, much less talk to, any long-distance riders during the day, but there was a party of five, four seniors and one younger man, at poolside when I went for my daily jacuzzi and dip, who had just finished a three-day, 200-mile-plus, ride in the hills to the north, beginning and ending at our motel.  We had a pleasant visit, comparing notes and telling tales.
    Morro Bay was the same kind of watershed as the Leggett-Pacific crossing of the Coast Range several days ago (I'm losing count).  We left the cape-and-creek regime behind and have entered the plain, sometimes narrow, but largely level, and sometimes broad, which dominates the coast and upon which metropolises are built all the way down to Corona del Mar, south of Newport Beach.
     Did I mention that my Aunt Mildred, with whom I rode to Lee Vining to begin the 1961 trip, was psychic?  No, I didn't think so.  According to family lore, she was gifted with ESP, and she proved it to my satisfaction the eve of our departure.  Some of our tropical fish had been disappearing from the aquarium, so Mildred and I asked Ouija what was happening to them.
      "Fisheatfishatnightaverageforthem" came the reply.  Not surprising, I have to admit.
      The came the hard question: where was the handlebar bag that I had not used for a couple of months and had spent half an hour searching the house and garage for?  The reply was, "Lookingarage behindtrunkagainstwall."  I did as Ouija instructed and found that the bag had indeed fallen between said trunk and said wall, and lay there covered with dust.      

     Tomorrow, Malibu or Santa Monica.

     Surfer Bob

Day 16 - Morro Bay, CA - Lompoc, CA

Day 16 - Morro Bay, CA - Lompoc, CA

Bike - Specialized Roubaix
Miles ridden - 78.3 miles
Total elapsed mileage - 1065.6
Time in saddle - 5:39
Average speed for day - 13.8 mph
Maximum speed for day - 37.7

     July 17-19, 1961 -
     July 17 -  Marylou and I got up at 6:30 and went freezing in the river.  I was then invited to breakfast of scrambled eggs and sausages.  Then I was invited to throw my bike in the camp trailer   and go south with them.  Marylou insisted and here I am.  I rode in their Cadillac and we traveled slowly, seeing as much as by cycle.  The road was very rugged and there were headwinds, so I don't feel too bad about cheating.  We are in Morro Bay State Park now.  Marylou seems extremely fond of me and wants me to stay with them for a couple of days.  I must leave before too long, however.  We have exchanged addresses and I have promised to see her at her home.  
     I was brought 89 miles.
     July 18 - Got up pretty early this morning and was fed pancakes.  Marylou and I just lazed around all day and saw the town while the others went fishing.  It is always foggy and cold here.  After supper of hot dogs I took in "Mein Kampf" and "Parrish" with Marylou at the Morro Bay Theatre.
     Made 0 miles.
     July 19 -  Today Marylou made me solemnly promise to visit her in her home and kept saying how much she would miss me.  She gave me her Parrish book so I could return it to her personally.  We all left camp at 10:00.  I headed south and they, home.  Arrived in San Luis Obispo and had brake fixed ($2.36!).  I saw some back country and got to Pismo Beach at 2:30.  The S.P. was packed and I was directed to a very ratty county park.  I hung around a while, then pulled out of the fogbound place.  I reached Guadalupe at 4:45 and saw the sign "le Roy Park, Santa Barbara County."  It is a beautiful place - running water, fireplaces, wood for the picking and green grass, but absolutely deserted.  It is off the beaten path, but I can't help feeling I'll be kicked out.
     6:00 - I'll crawl in sleeping bag and read Parrish.
     Made 43 miles.

     I was a late bloomer, even by 1961 standards, so meeting and spending over two days non-stop with blue-eyed, fair-haired Marylou made her my first girlfriend.  And when Mr. K handed me the keys to his Cadillac to take his daughter to the movies, it was the first time I went on a date in a car not driven by a parent. It was a rite of passage, under the most unusual of circumstances.

     July 5, 2011 - Got away from the motel at about 10:45.  Fine morning - clear, cool, dry, seabreeze filling in from NW.  Did a little sightseeing in Morro Bay, took a few pictures, including of the still-in-business theatre and the entrance to the state park.  Planned to meet Bob in SLO at 1:00, but wind was so favorable and road so fast that I was there at 12:30.  So was Bob, so we linked up and found a bike shop so I could replace my mirror - this time with one that clips to the bow of my sunglasses.  Left town at 1:00 and agreed to meet again at 2:00 for lunch in the next town, Arroyo Grande.  For the record, SLO is a very pretty town with a vital, bustling, historical city center area and Arroyo Grande is equally attractive.
     Couldn't say quite as much for Guadalupe, whose business is farming.  Didn't see the park where I stayed in '61, but didn't really look because the day was wearing on.  As the road passed through Guadalupe and bore off to the southeast, it disappeared into infinity, probably ten miles down the empty plain.  I had a dantesque "Abandon all hope, ye who enter here" moment, but I was not on the road to Hell, because I had a fifteen-mph wind at my back.  I knocked off those ten miles in about thirty minutes.
     I had agreed to meet Bob at 6:00 on the far side of Lompoc, but had underestimated the distance and was slowed more than I expected by the third climb of the day, over Harris Grade on a fast, four-lane road with wide and smooth shoulders.  Got into Lompoc proper at about 6:30 and, with liquids exhausted some miles back, stopped at the first motel I came to, verified availability, and called Bob.
     Drank my fill, had a most relaxing visit to the jacuzzi, dined with Bob, did laundry, worked on this blog and went to bed relatively late.
     Talked to my daughter on the phone this morning about visting and sleeping arrangements following our arrival in Long Beach, now planned for the afternoon of the 8th, more than a day earlier than originally projected.
     It's hard to believe that only 16 days ago I was dipping my wheel in Oak Harbor.  A lot of miles under my skinny tires.
     I also called Sean this morning: he was planning on flying back to Denver the same day.  After two weeks on his bike, he said, and having done pretty much what he set out to do, he was ready to go home.  I wish him luck and success in his bike-repair and -building, as well as his riding, endeavors.
     Tomorrow night, Santa Barbara.

     Bob
    
 


.

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Day 15 - Santa Cruz, CA - Big Sur, CA

Bicycle - Specialized Roubaix
Miles ridden - 76 (Happy Independence Day!)
Total elapsed miles - 987.3
Time in saddle - 6:19
Average speed - 11.9 mph
Maximum speed - 29.9

     July 16, 1961 - Got a late start today.  Broke two spokes in Castroville.  Ate bread and honey... at Watsonvile.  Got to Monterey about 2:00.  Called Mother and Hilda is in Long Beach.   Toured Monterey for a while then moseyed 28 miles to Big Sur.  Got into a private park for 50 cents at 6:30.
     Had a big swimming hole in Sur River.  Met a girl in the water.  Marylou K. (not her real name) , 16.  Recently from Texas and now living in Van Nuys.  On vacation with father, mother and 14 year-old brother.
     Ate spaghetti and then went to K camp where I popped corn and we cooked marshmallows.  Got to bed at 11:00.  Rode 69 miles.

     I clearly remember that while at the checkout counter buying bread and honey in Watsonville, I  heard a woman saying to a cashier, "So I told him, 'I was born in Watson, I live in Watson, and by God I'll die in Watson'."  A lot of people were born in, moved to and live in Watson.  The population in 1960 was 13,293; in 2011, 51,199.     
      My hardest day, if not my longest.  Got off to a slow start after a good breakfast at one of old Santa Cruz's iconic cafes.   Before I started riding, we found the famous surfing spot Steamer's Lane and were amused to through the fog that it was crowded with kooks and gremlins on identical boards taking a class in 18 inches of surf.   The wave of the future, so to speak.
     A very mixed route, beginning with urban Santa Cruz and taking me through suburban Aptos, where I just missed getting blocked for six hours by an Independence Day parade.  From there, I was shunted off Interstate 1 onto agricultural roads through some of the most fertile-looking fields I've ever seen. Want to know where your strawberries and artichokes come from?  Just ask me.
     Met a local rider and hung with him for 20 minutes or so before my first serious headwinds of the trip began to take their toll on me, making my fourth hour of the day the hardest on level ground to date.  Rendezvous'ed with Bob in Seaside, where I rested for an hour and we partook of yet another Mexican meal (quite good, actually).  Bob had also had the kindness to pick up for me a headband, which solved the constant irritation of my eyes from helmet-liner brine - don't know why I didn't bring one from home. Lost my rearview mirror somewhere on the morning's run - will look for another in San Luis Obispo today.
     The afternoon was also long.  Turned away from the head winds but had to make a long climb over the heights of Carmel before beginning the last, hilly coastal leg to Big Sur (in 1961 I "moseyed"?  Life was so much easier then!).  That route took me over the famous Bixby Bridge, famous as the venue of an old Chevy commercial and for a much-published photo of a Tour de California peleton in full cry.  As were all the bridges on this leg, it was built in 1932, before which time it was presumaby impossible to get to Big Sur from the north by motor vehicle.  The bridge was followed by another monster ascent to another imposing headland, after which the road began to descend and level out. The final five miles into Big Sur were dead downwind and the fastest of the day by far.    
      I found Bob waiting for me at mile 75.  I asked him to follow me up the road until my cycloputer showed 76 miles, in honor of Independence Day.
      For reasons that will become clear when you read the retrospective, 1961, portion of tomorrow's post on this blog, we shuttled the next 93 miles to Morro Bay in the Jeep.  It was challenging and scary enough in the comfort and relative safety of a motor vehcile to make me very happy that I wasn't seeing and doing it from the saddle of my spoke pony.  My hat's off to the one group of riders we passed, a man and two twenty-something women, heavily-loaded and heading south.
     The final approach to Morro Bay took us past one of the few sea elephant rookeries on the coast and gave us a view of San Simeon Castle on a mountain ridge far to our left.  We found our pre-reserved  room at a Best Western a few minutes from the waterfront and drove into town for dinner.  Didn't stay for the fireworks, but could see and hear them from our motel.  I really can't say whether it's changed a lot since 1961.  It was so foggy when I was here that I couldn't see anything outside my 50-yard radius of visibility.
 
      Watch this spot for the next few days.  ETA and wheel-dipping in Long Beach now likely for June 8.

      Signing out, from Morro Bay

      Bob

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Day 14 - Mill Valley, Ca - Santa Cruz, CA

Day 14 - Mill Valley, CA - Santa Cruz, CA

Bike - Specialized Roubaix
Miles ridden - 84.6
Total elapsed mileage - 911.3
Time in saddle - 6:22
Average speed for day - 13.2 mph
Max speed for day - 41.8

    July 15, 1961: Slept well in motel and ate cereal there.  I don't know when I started; watch stopped.  Rode through 17 miles of rough mountains before I reached the Bridge.  Very foggy and windy.  The Bridge routed me onto a freeway, which nearly panicked me, and made my only aim to get out of town.  S.F. is not for bicycle tourists.  Really moved from Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz with tail winds and good road.  Bought more sourdough bread and honey.  This park is actually full, but the ranger fitted me in.  For the first time, it cost - a dollar.  But at least I'm legal and I won't be turned out at 10:00.  
     A man gve me a Presto-log and I cooked soup.  My left knee sure hurts at times.  I am only forty miles from Monterey.  I sure hope I can get hold of Hilda (my mother's first cousin) tomorrow.
     Made 100 miles; passed 1,000 mark south of Frisco (apparently including the over-the-Sierras-to-Yosemite leg). 
     Still have $29.  I should have the $20 left when I get home.  I am running over a dollar a day, but living well, and that is what matters.  

    Got under way around 9:00 on the Sausalito bike trail, well known to me already from rental-bike rides during visits to the Bay area.  Called Lynda at about 10:00 from the Golden Gate bridge.  A much smoother and safer crossing that 50 years ago this month, when riding a BIKE acros the bridge was an outlandish proposition.  Since the west, usually southbound, sidewalk was closed for maintainance, the eastern sidewalk was crowded with riders and walkers, especially in the last couple hundred yards, where Chinese tourists ruled the pavement.

     The first thirty miles were Sausalito trail, bridge, urban, suburban and slow, eating up the first three hours of riding time of the day.  The steepest and longest climb of the day, reaching 600 feet, was through a residential neigborhood of suburban Daly City.  The first section ended with a slow slog around the backside of a headland.  The danger of the extremely narrow shoulder was tempered by the equally slow speed of the bumper-to-bumper traffic, and revenge was mine on the descent as I overtook and passed the same vehicles which had edged past me on the ascent.    

     As long as the wind is at my back, I do not dread hills.  I gear down, focus on the front wheel and the shoulder lane, and remind myself that every foot climbed is a foot taken back on the descent.  No matter how fast you descend, however, your average falls, because you spend so much more time climbing than descending.

     The coast then flattened out somewhat, population decreased to almost nil and the wind increased as the afternoon advanced.  Windsurfers and kiteboarders were having a field day as I continued south past accessible beaches.  I was making 25 mph on flat ground and 15-plus uphill, and covered the last 30 miles to Santa Cruz - meeting up with Bob once for an urgently-needed topping up of fluids - in about half the time the first 30 miles had cost me.  Linked up with Bob in Santa Cruz at about ten to five and we made our way to  our lodgings in Watsonville.

     We're gaining time over my projected itinerary.  Rather than overnighting in Monterey tomorrow as originally planned, I'll ride to Big Sur and we will car-shuttle, as in 1961, to Morro Bay, gaining several hours.  We may arrive in Long Beach with usable time available on Friday the 8th rather than Saturday the 9th.

     And now the burning question you've all been waiting to ask: Do cyclists wear underwear under those lycra tights?   It is conventional wisdom among serious recreational cyclist that they do not, and professional racers certainly don't.  I did, most of the time, until this ride - it seemed... well, cleaner to do so.  However, to use the words of former Miami Herald humor columnist and book writer Dave Barry, my underwear zone,  especially the part of it where the leg-opening seams rub against some of the body's most sensitive flesh during the 14,000-or so pedal strokes I make during the average riding day, was paying the price.   Thus, today I ditched the Fruit of the Looms and the difference, and relief, have been remarkable.

     Also, to quote, in its entirety, the poem Babies,  by that most succinct of American poets, Ogden Nash:         A bit of talcum
                  Is always walcum

    1:  Alex - Cape Perpetua
    2: Cousin Jean's, Seal Rock

    

Regards, and until tomorrow,

     Roberto